by awatkins1984

Alright, someone asked me on the original file if I could remix this as fewer parts to make it easier to print. Well ask and you shall receive. Unfortunately it is still 13 parts, but I had to keep the internals if I wanted it to work.

I also realized that you can use two rubber bands to make it "fire" in single action. That means you will have to manually pull back the hammer between trigger pulls. One loops over the top of the trigger and around the hammer pivot pin before you put the hammer on. The second goes loops around the bottom of the hammer and goes around the screw you hold both halves together with. I recommend the small rubber bands you hold braided hair together with.

Between the "excellent" tolerances of most consumer 3d printers and the rubber bands, this will probably make the single smoothest shooting M1895 revolver in history! Seriously, I own a couple and the tolerances are MESSED UP in real life too. I had to bust out the needle files and polish away a lot of machining marks to make mine as good as it could be. And that mainspring is no joke!

You will need to glue the ejector sleeve back together around the barrel. The ejector sleeve probably has a better name but hell if I know what it is. Aside from holding the ejector (which is useless on this model because the cartridge is part of the cylinder now and cannot be ejected) the sleeve also turns around the barrel to allow you to remove the cylinder pin and cylinder.

You will need a single screw,  M2.5x16mm Cheese Head Slotted, goes from the right side to the left to hold both sides together (and loop the hammer "spring" rubber band around). McMaster Carr Part 91800A618 or Fastenal Part 0131612.

There's a rather nice assembly/disassembly video on Youtube at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0cuhKtlUtH4 that shows how all this fits together on a real revolver.